For a very moving essay on what it means to be an Iranian, read
Alien Nation, Kamin Mohammedi, Tehran Bureau, 2009-08-01
It is very hard to see all these pictures from modern Iranian cities and believe that the Iranians live with a medieval government. We may believe that our 2000 and 2004 elections were stolen, but no newspapers were shut down for writing that fraud had taken place and nobody was sent to prison for claiming there was fraud.